
Carrots are the most dependable vegetable in the British kitchen. They sit patiently in the fridge drawer for a fortnight, they cost very little, and they turn up in everything from a Sunday roast to a packed lunch. The trouble is that most of us treat them as an afterthought — boiled until soft, perhaps a knob of butter stirred through, and onto the plate without much ceremony.
That is a shame, because carrots carry a natural sweetness that roasting draws out and concentrates. Add maple syrup, fresh thyme and a decent pinch of sea salt, and those same humble roots become the part of the meal people reach for second helpings of. The whole thing takes about ten minutes of hands-on work. The oven does the rest.
This is a side dish for autumn and winter especially, when British carrots are at their best and the oven is on anyway for a joint of meat or a nut roast.
Any carrot will work here, but the variety you choose changes the character of the dish.
Scrub rather than peel if you can — most of the flavour and plenty of the fibre sits just under the skin. If the skins are tough or mud-caked, a light peel is fine. Dry them properly with a tea towel afterwards. Wet carrots steam rather than roast, and you will never get that sticky, caramelised edge.
Cut them into even-sized pieces, roughly five to seven centimetres long and no thicker than a pound coin. Thin wedges and batons roast faster and catch more glaze; thick chunks need longer and stay more tender inside.
Maple syrup is not simply a substitute for sugar. Good dark maple has a faint smoky, woody depth that complements root vegetables far better than honey or golden syrup. As it hits a hot oven tray it reduces, thickens and clings, turning the carrots glossy and burnished.
Thyme is the right herb because it is robust. Soft herbs such as parsley or basil scorch and turn bitter at roasting temperatures; thyme's woody leaves stand up to the heat and release their oil slowly, so you get a savoury, slightly piney note against the sweetness. Lemon thyme, if you grow it, is especially good here.
Sea salt does two jobs. It seasons, obviously, but the flakes also draw moisture to the surface so the carrots brown rather than stew. Use a flaky sea salt for finishing and keep the fine salt for the initial seasoning.
Preheat the oven to 200C (180C fan, gas mark 6). You want a good hot oven and a large, shallow roasting tin — if the carrots are piled on top of each other they will steam.
Timings vary enormously with the size of your carrots, so start checking at the 25-minute mark. If they are browning too quickly, drop the oven to 180C and cover loosely with foil.
These carrots sit happily beside roast chicken, slow-cooked lamb shoulder, sausages and mash, or a nut roast. They also work at room temperature, which makes them useful for a buffet table or a Boxing Day spread.
Cold leftovers are excellent roughly chopped through a lentil or grain salad with crumbled feta and a sharp vinaigrette. They can also be folded into a soup with a little stock and blended smooth, or chopped and added to bubble and squeak the next morning. Keep them covered in the fridge for up to three days, and reheat in a hot oven for five minutes rather than in the microwave, which will undo all that lovely caramelisation.
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