
Winter salads ask more of a dressing than a July tomato ever does. The leaves are bitter, the roots are sweet and earthy, and everything benefits from something that can cut through richness while still feeling generous. Maple syrup and mustard do that together. The syrup is not just sugar; it brings a soft, almost woody caramel note that rounds off sharp vinegar. Mustard supplies heat and, just as usefully, acts as an emulsifier, helping the oil and vinegar hold together long enough to coat every leaf.
Cider vinegar is the third pillar. Its fruity sharpness suits British winter cooking better than balsamic, which can be too heavy. Olive oil carries the lot. Whisked together, you get a dressing that is bright, faintly sweet, and punchy enough to stand up to cavolo nero, roasted parsnips, and a crumble of blue cheese.
Start with this ratio, then adjust to taste. It makes roughly 150ml, enough for four to six generous servings.
Put the maple, mustard, vinegar, salt, and pepper into a bowl. Whisk briefly. Then add the oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly, until the dressing thickens and looks glossy. If you are short on time, put everything in a jam jar, screw the lid on tightly, and shake hard for 20 seconds. The mustard will do the work.
If the dressing splits, it is not ruined. Add a teaspoon of cold water and whisk again, or a little more mustard. Taste: it should be sharp but not aggressive, sweet but not cloying. Adjust with a few drops more vinegar or a little extra maple.
The base is a template. Change it according to what you are dressing.
This dressing is wasted on soft lettuce. Save it for the robust stuff: cavolo nero, curly kale, savoy cabbage, shredded Brussels sprouts, red cabbage, chicory, and radicchio. These leaves have structure and bitterness that can handle the mustard and vinegar.
For kale and cavolo nero, strip the leaves from the tough stalks, shred finely, and massage with a tablespoon of dressing and a pinch of salt for five to ten minutes. The leaves will darken and soften without losing their bite. Shredded raw Brussels sprouts need about twenty minutes in the dressing to take the edge off. Red cabbage can be dressed an hour ahead — it will keep its crunch and the colour will bleed beautifully into the dressing.
Roast roots at 200°C (180°C fan, gas 6) until caramelised at the edges: parsnips, carrots, celeriac, swede, beetroot, Jerusalem artichokes. Toss them with a spoonful of dressing while they are still warm so they drink it in. Then build a salad around them.
The pattern is simple: something roasted and sweet, something raw and bitter, something crunchy, something salty or creamy. The maple mustard dressing ties the lot together.
Make a double batch. It keeps in a sealed jar in the fridge for up to two weeks. Olive oil solidifies when cold, so take the jar out twenty minutes before you need it and give it a good shake. If you have used yoghurt or crème fraîche, use it within four days.
Dress delicate leaves at the last moment. Robust leaves and roasted roots can be dressed ten minutes ahead, or even while warm. Always taste before serving — cold dulls flavours, so you may need an extra pinch of salt or a squeeze of vinegar. A final grind of black pepper and a drizzle of the dressing over the top is never a bad idea.
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